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Fast Fact
Where to stay
- Taj Ganges
Raja Bazaar road, Nadesar, # 0542- 345100, 345117. Fax # 0542- 348067:
US $ 105 for a single room, US $ 120 for a double room. US $ 160 for a standard suite. US $ 175 for a deluxe suite.
- Hotel Hindustan International, C-21/3, Maldahiya, tel # 0545-351484, 351485: US $ 34 for a single room. US $ 68 for a double room.
- Hotel de Paris, The Mall, Cantonment, tel # 0542- 346601. Fax # 0542-348520
US $ 25 for a single room. US $ 30 for a double room.
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Hotel Varanasi Ashok, The Mall, Cantonment, tel # 0542- 346020. Fax # 0542-348089
Rs 1,500 for a single room. Rs 2,500 fora double room. Rs 3,000 for a suite.
- Hotel Ideal Tops, Cantonment, tel # 0542-348091. Fax # 0542- 348685:
Rs 1,195 for a single and Rs 1,695 for a double.
- Hotel Pradeep, Jagatganj, tel # 0542-344963. Fax # 0542-344898: Rs 700 for a single. Rs 800 for a double.
Accommodation is available to suit all budgets. Apart from the hotels mentioned, there are a whole range of budget hotels in the city, especially near the ghats.
How to get there
Indian Airlines flies into Varanasi twice a day from Delhi and twice a week from Bombay.
- IC 407 departs from New Delhi at 1000 hours and reaches Varanasi at 1300 hours via Agra and Khajuraho. The one way economy class fare is Rs 3,315.
- IC 807 departs from New Delhi at 1045 hours and reaches Varanasi at 1200 hours. The one way economy class fare is Rs 3,315.
- IC 408 departs from Varanasi at 1330 hours and reaches New Delhi at 1725 hours via Khajuraho and Agra. The one way economy class fare is Rs 3,315.
- IC 808 departs from Bombay on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 1620 hours and reaches Varanasi at 1735 hours. The one way economy class fare is Rs 6,325.
The Kashi Vishvwnath Express pulls into Varanasi daily from New Delhi. It departs from New Delhi at 1330 hours and reaches Varanasi at 0520 hours. In the reverse direction the express departs from Varanasi at 1400 hour s and reaches New Delhi at 0645 hours.
The Shramjeevi Express pulls into Varanasi daily from New Delhi. It departs from New Delhi at 1320 hours and reaches Varanasi at 0235 hours. In the reverse direction the express departs from Varanasi at 1520 hours and reaches New Delhi at 0535 hours.
Tickets: AC chair car is Rs 500 per head. AC three tier is Rs 600 per head. AC two tier is Rs 1,100 per head. AC first class is Rs 1,800.
Best time to visit
Between October and March the weather is balmy and quite cool. You would require some woollens.
Where to eat
Varanasi is famous for chaat shops such as Dina Chat Bhandar at Luxa road, Ramji Chat at Lahora Bir and Kashi Chat house at Goduliya. Most of the good local eating joints are around the Chowk area. However if you are looking for the more standard food the hotels are your best bet. The Varuna restaurant at the Taj Ganges serves an excellent thali.
Getting around
The easiest and fastest way to get around is by autorickshaws which are available both on a 'share' basis or for hire. Cycle rickshaws are aslo a good way to get through the narrow lanes and gallis. Always settle the rate beforehand. Boatmen charge Rs 150 to Rs 200 for hiring an entire boat for an hour for a ride on the Ganga at sunrise. At other times the rate can be half. 'Share' boats are also available. Again, fix the rate beforehand.
The ghats
All of the 70 odd ghats along the Ganga are marked by a lingams. It is best to visit the ghats early in the morning or at sunset for aarti. Some of the more famous:
- Asi Ghat: This is the ghat located furthest south at the confluence of the Ganga with Asi. The impressive lingam is worth a visit. The tank nearby -- Lolarka Kund -- is the site of an annual fair in the late monsoons. This tank is said to be one of the oldest monuments of the city.
- Tulsi Ghat: Named after India's famous poet, this decrepit ghat is nearly history.
- Hanuman Ghat: The site of an interesting temple honouring the saint, Vallabha. And for its sculpture of the dog Bhairava, an avatar of Shiva.
- Harishchandra Ghat: One of Varanasi's famous burning ghats.
- Karnataka Ghat: Frequented by Karnatakans, the shrine at the ghat is serviced by priests of that region.
- Kedara Ghat: Known for its striking Kedareshvara lingam which is located in the red and white striped temple. Important pilgrimage point during Shravan.
- Chauki Ghat: The site of several chota temples dedicated to Nag.
- Munshi Ghat: This bathing ghat is frequented by Muslims though they attach no significance to bathing in the Ganga.
- Ahiliya Bai Ghat: Named after a popular patroness of Varanasi's temples.
- Dharbanga Ghat: The mansion near here once had hand pulled lift!
- Dhobi Ghat: The preserve of Varanasi's washermen. An interesting place to head to and watch the dhobhis in action, pounding wet cotton against stone. It is said that Brahmins have their private band of washermen.
- Rana Mahal Ghat: Built by the royal family of Udaipur.
- Manasarovara Ghat: Named for the sacred lake of Tibet.
- Narada Ghat: Honours Narada Munni. Legend has that bathing at the ghat leads to domestic quarrels.
- Shivala Ghat: A private ghat that belongs to the royal family of Varanasi. Chet Singh's fort is nearby where he was imprisoned by Warren Hastings. He escaped by climbing down the walls of the fort and swimming away down the Ganga.
- Anandamayi Ghat: An ashram of this famous Bengali saint is located near here.
- Raja Ghat: Built by a royal family from the region of Pune. The river level is marked here.
- Chaumsathi Ghat: The site of a intriguing Kali temple. Nearby is the stately palace of Peshwa Amrit Rao.
- Dashashwamedha Ghat: A very important ghat for pilgrims and the location of a temple honouring Sheetala, an avatar of the powerful Parvati, wife of Shiva. Dashashwamedha ghat is noisy and very busy; much bathing, massage, commerce and worship goes on here.
The ghat is named for Brahma's ten horse sacrifice. Legend has it that Raja Divodasa was appointed the king of Kashi. He accepted on the condition that other lords would leave the city. The gods agreed only if he passed certain tests. Brahma tested a Divodasa by asking him to perform a variety of difficult sacrifices. If he failed he would have to leave Kashi. If he passed the gods would have to leave Kashi. He did not and Brahma was so impressed with his performance that a Brahmeshvara lingam was built. Those who bathe in the waters at this ghat get a free ride to salvation, courtesy Divodasa.
A short walk from here is the Vishwanatha Khanda or the old city, where Varanasi's ancient and rather impressive Vishwanath temple is located. This temple has been around -- though it has been ransacked and re-built many times -- for centuries. Nearby is the Mosque of Aurangzeb.
- Man Mandir Ghat: An extremely interesting eighteenth century observatory is located here. Nearby is the Someshvara's lingam.
- Mir Ghat: The site of a new Vishwanath temple, the home of a group of conservative Brahmins, who believe that original Vishwanath temple has been violated. At this ghat is the Dharma Kupa. At this well, Yama, the god of death was armed with the power to rule the world's dead, except for the souls of Varanasi.
- Lalita Ghat: A small corner of Nepal in Varanasi, this ghat houses a shrine to Pashupateshvara, a favourite Nepali deity. Nearby is a special shrine to Vishnu.
- Manikarnika Ghat: The main cremation ghat of Varanasi and the preserve of the Doms, Hindu undertakers. Death is the main business at this ghat. The wealthy are cremated with sandalwood. But as is the norm with Hinduism, this ghat symbolises both life and death and the Manikarnika Kund is the first tirtha or crossing point.
- Jalasayin Ghat: Adjacent to Manilarnika Ghat, cremations go on here too.
- Dattatreya Ghat: Named after a Brahmin saint.
- Scindia Ghat: Like an Indian version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Scindia Ghat is home to a crooked Shiva temple. The pilgrimage spot of Siddha Kshetra is nearby.
- Lakshmanbala Ghat: Great place to come to get a good view of the Ganga. Photo opp.
- Gai Ghat: The location of a statue of a holy cow.
- Panchganga Ghat: This ghat was once the location of the famous Bindu Madhava temple, a huge shrine dedicated to Vishnu. Mughal emperor Aurangzeb destroyed the temple and now the ghat is the site of the grand Mosque of Alamgir or Beni Madhav ka Darer. At this ghat, the much revered poet-saint Kabir was initiated. Legend has it that five rivers meet here -Saraswati, Ganga, Gyana, Kiran and Dhutpapa.
- Trilochana Ghat: Location of the lingam of Trilochana Shiva.
- Adi Keshava Ghat: This ghat is located at the confluence of the Varana and the Ganga.
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